Prusa mk4 print quality issues Print Quality. Hi I keep having intermittent issues when trying to print sticky materials (PETG being the most problematic) . What could be the problems? I share a video of the detail, which is: Pistol Grip - Picatinny. Quality on the other hand, the MK4 beats it. First layer issues Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. The Benchy hull line Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4/S, MK3. 5/S, MK3/S/+) Print settings. I'm not sure how to describe the issue so I attached a few pictures along with the print files. While these issues can appear even on factory-assembled machines, implementing these fixes and maintaining them will keep your printer running perfectly. I am using the built-in settings in the most up to date Prusa Slic3r and the quality is very poo So, after being completely astounded at the quality of everything I've printed (PLA, PETG & TPU) from my first ever 3d printer, and one I put toge So I started to notice some issues with my first layer on my MK4. 9/S, MK3. But I haven't found this to be much of an issue on most parts, even if I directly compare them to my Voron. Not by much, but I definitely get cleaner prints on the MK4. Did a whole sheet first layer test (2nd print) on my newly built MK4 kit and I am getting rippling on the sides and corners. this is most likely a quality issue. And when the print stop, I cancel it and check the USB stick to restart, the USB stick appear as empty. The MK4 is equipped with four thermistors and comes with a custom-built high-quality Delta power supply. Same Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting Still have questions? If you have a question about something that isn't covered here, check out our additional resources. Articles. In spots it seems too close, but it's not consistent across the bed. Also bed was cleaned with IPA before printing. 5: $249 - MK3. Unfortunately, the print quality was not improved by the firmware re-flash or nozzle adjustment. Doing a full recalibration didn't help and everything passed. I’d need to add a camera, I would need to find a way to get the MMU3 airtight and sealed so filaments stay dry, like Bambu’s AMS is. Left: 0. There might be several causes, although low-quality filament is often the main issue. I used the same roll of filament to print the mk4 parts on the mk3s and they look good. It is not even comparable but also depends on what you want to do with it. 05mm really suck, so I would use 0. If you are with Prusa - stick with Prusa. I printed the exact same part in PLA, same issues but not as severe. 8 mm nozzles. Members Online • exbarboss Shroud Fixing Overhang Issues on Far Side of Print - Mk4 4. Prusamint PETG black Filament. 9_firmware_5. My printer has been working fine until today, I have been printing for the last 3 months now without much issues with the prints. Build Quality. As and X1C and MK4 owner - proudly a big fan of both - that video does a disservice to those that really want to know the differences. The MK4 just works. 7”), a decently compact design. 10 mm Detail Brim width 0. I would print it 90 degrees back with the small holes flat on the build plate. This is the result of a week of slicing and testing to get a perfect calibration print for the Prusa MK4's Input Shaper. This is a consistent issue, this most recent print I tried putting on a huge brim (12mm) and I got the part to stick super well however half way through the print, it shifted again. 15 layer height and only change it to something higher when there are a lot of straight up walls. Prusa mk4 abs printing help Having issues printing ABS with my prusa mk 4. And, while I did gain speed and lose detail in some pocketed text with increased layer height, my overall model quality is poor and very brittle. Post anything that relates to these 3d printers, personal projects, new designs, improvements, questions, news or anything that relates to the main topic. Enclosure. Applied lubrication. I've tried both . Bad printing quality I got issues with the But, from what I've seen, most people have problems with Creality, most don't with Prusa. All things considered, does anyone have any experience of the quality of output between these 2? I've been playing with the MK4 for a couple of weeks, but some of the projects are just too small. The P1S definitely is more noisy, but also more speedy. Had some minor print quality issues, but fixed them easily enough. Same here! Been tinkering with an ender 3 for years, and it was like wack a mole! Each time I fixed something, a new problem came up! Been printing with my Mk4 for 8 months now and have had no issues at all. Put the printer inside of an enclosure with rubber feets. What I know is that the Prusa MK4(s) - MMU3 works without any problems. 20 speed vs structural. I've tried to print it about 4 times and I get a massive layer shift eventually (I assume this is because the nozzle eventually hits the print and the stepper All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Built-in Safety Features: Original Prusa 3D printers are well-known for their reliability and safe operation. One for example is the "Lowest poly The Thinker", where the corners of the legs was a disaster with input shaping, but without Could I have a bad thermistor in my MK4? After having had problems printing with the default profiles for TPU and PETG, along with occasional issues with PLA not extruding consistently, and reading in the forums about others having issues with thermistors, I am wondering if that might be an issue with my MK4. There are a couple of things that can go wrong when printing your first layer, so let’s take a look at what can be done to avoid these problems. One of the big changes with the MK4 is the ability to use Input Shaper (IS), which a Original Prusa MK4. Just upgraded my MK4 (originally a 3S) to MK4s and done my first print in my usual PETG, and its the worst print quality and stringiest/blobby print I've ever done with a Prusa. For I love my BL printers, but that's no reason to say Prusa makes a bad printer. The wizard installs any of the predefined printers. From my experience, the glossy surface is because you print hotter or slower than the other one (you can google search another sample with bambulab print result, the surface is matte when print fast), or if you using same gcode, there must be a differences in temperature between the two nozzle even if the printer have a same reading, but sometimes if Printer type - MK4 Printer firmware version - 5. If you have problems with vibrations and Y-axis noise, there is a solution that I applied to myself. upvotes /r/prusa is a place for people to discuss the open source Prusa 3d printer design. I love the speed of the P1S/P1P. The step up in quality and print time is not sufficient to me. I am using the built-in settings in the most up to date Prusa Slic3r and the quality is very poo For this, I reverted to the default Prusa-supplied NinjaTek Cheetah TPU @MK4 and the Prusa-supplied 0. Filament: Prusament PETG The Prusa’s more traditional “bed slinger” design is less common for high speed printers, but we haven’t heard of any problems resulting from Prusa pushing the MK4 to these faster speeds. So for a prusa you will generally get multiple default Print profiles for each Printer profiles. I default to 0. RE: Print issues - After 1 month of ownership. Just edit the start gcode in Prusaslicer. Stringing and oozing Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. Also the support was not helpful at all. Sliced in PrusaSlicer 2. 0. Assembly and first prints troubleshooting. I'm wondering if I should have the vertical "banding" I checked the different sheets when I had the problems, but this doesn't seems to be the issue here. true. Belts are perfectly taut, checked with the belt tensioner site. The prints I get out of my MK4 look far more cleaner than that. (mass of plastic accumulated around the hotend) is one of the most scary-looking printing problems you might face with your 3D printer. Pictures of boxes and shipping notices are considered low-effort and will be removed. I only have a few IS profiles - . Hello today i printed this with IS MK4 profile 0. Printed at default PrusaSlicer settings for . 4/ layer 0. 9 upgrade. Solved I made a post a few days ago about my quality issues on my new mk4 kit, and said I would make a follow-up on it. Since that time, I do have issues with layer adhesion. And if that doesn't do the trick, you can send an inquiry to I'm having issues with the print quality on the MK4. It always seems to reoccur though. Easy to use. Contacted support and was told me that I should use the smooth sheet for PLA not the textured and to use windex to It can produce stunning quality prints. I've tried it a few times before, where I get a roll of wet filament and run it through a good, tuned printer vs a bad one. Prusaslicer 2. For example overhangs at 0. 0, released November 23, 2023 and it has steadily gotten worse from that point in time All things related to Prusa 3D printers. I've always had directional cooling issues with my mk4 so I Since day one I’ve had intermittent x-axis issues. 9, MK3. 0. Using it to teach others to print, and it’s a great printer for that. In the same boat. Prusa Research company, founded by the Czech entrepreneur and tech developer Josef Prusa, introduced their long-awaited new 3D printer. I love my MK4 for what it is and it will be my reliable go-to for single-color, slow but great quality prints. The printer is in a Prusa Just had the same issue, printer running on 5. Standard Prusa PETG settings in the Prusa Slicer. 20mm structural print setting and the love board cover printed by Prusa and suppied with my Mk4 kit. Why does no one at Prusa adress this. 4 obXidian nozzle Set the probing temperature to 150 C, that'll get rid of oozing during probing. Although Prusa Research enjoys extraordinary popularity, the importance of the Czech company and its innovations is often underestimated. (nozzle 210, bed 60). Prusa is not transparent with shipping time and issues regarding the MK4 They have been teasing and pranking about the MK4 but got scared when Bambu took over number 1, but shows how much issues Bambu caused them. TL:DR Orginal problem: print was unable to make sharp corners or small details. Attached are 2 example prints, each about 2. The IS values are already set on the machine, but a couple of lines of GCODE can be added to the printer profile in the slicer to change it, one for each axis. MMU3: Yes. The XL would solve some of that, but I'm curious if the quality suffers any on the smaller projects I've done on the MK4? RE: Bad experiences with MK4. Well Prusa support seem like they've ghosted me (asked me to print a temp tower, which looks fine). 4 MVS in the Prusa Cheetah profile. They literally produce parts of their printers using their printers. The print surface should be regularly maintained to achieve optimal printing quality and minimize the chance of failed prints. I've also enjoyed assembling the printers and have had ZERO issues with the build quality or the instructions. I am a day 1 XL preorderer because I wanted a Core XY machine and I love the Prusa environment and the way you can keep upgrading the printer to a newer design. RE: MK4 kit, really frustrating assembly wish I was recommended fully assembled. 10 detail layer height, default settings. Hi all, I've been having issues with what looks to be under extrusion on the perimeters of some parts. 2 Original or Custom firmware - Original Optional upgrades - None. I actually found them very specific and easy to understand. In comparison, on the DIY printer I have sitting nearby, which uses an Aliexpress-found Prusa-like bed and build surface, when setting the temperature at 60, I read 65 with the IR thermometer. I'm using the default Prusa PETG filament profile in prusa slicer with some adjustments like a 3 loop skirt (because it tends to botch the initial purge extrusion) and 60-80% infill. I had a few issues while building the MMU3 itself. The Benchy hull line Troubleshooting > Print The Prusa key fob printed correctly in the center of the bed using Prusa PLA. In the picture, the silver print is from my MK3S+ with the same infill, etc as the gold one on Aside from the obvious drying issue, this part will be extremely weak printed in this orientation. Manually transferred with a thumb drive. 1+14848. MK4 with 5. ADMIN MOD New MK4 Heatbed thermistor issue Question/Need help Hello! This is my first 3D printer. It's located in an official Prusa Enclosure. Ok, the MK4 is quiter. So they optimize their printers and have the knowledge of hundrets Printer settings: Original Prusa MK4 0. I'm having issues with the print quality on the MK4. It is usually associated with an abnormal movement of the You can recognize under extrusion when there is material missing in your print’s layers. Firmware Version: 6. QuarterParty489. This article explains the most common causes of this issue, which are usually the same regardless of the printer type or model. I've tried over the network and USB drive. Removing it after it happens is Troubleshooting > Printer troubleshooting. I just installed a hardened steel cht nozzle to test out. The MK4 is a great redesign but not worth it over the printer I already have. 0 RC or newer firmware, and Original Prusa MK4 Input Shaper printer profile. Having some serious print quality issues with my pre assembled MK4. 2mm Make sure you updated the firmware on the printer to the newest, newest PrusaSlicer, slice the print yourself and don’t get a premade gcode file. This has happened multiple times. Stringing, weird printing issues, holes everywhere like it was shotgunned from the side. RE: Print Quality issue: wavy/smeared curved parts of print. No surprises. I get it that this machine is no doubt probably a beta release and we can work with a couple of bugs but not being able to actually get a clean print with out issues is unacceptable . My setup: Prusa Mk4 printer. 75mm Smooth Silk Filament Muticolor, Silk PLA Filament 4 Color Pack 4x250g (Gold, Silver, Pink, White) MK4 quality issues 14. I print from the USB Stick provided. 1, printer 6. Even today, the Mk4 and XL are fine machines. It’s usually referred to as coefficient of thermal expansion, or CTE, and causes all sorts of issues if not properly designed for. MK4 vibration noises. P1P - Positive Much cheaper assembled Fast printing Quality prints A good slicer that has been copy paste from Prusa Original Prusa MK4. . That being said, the PLA bushings I used lasted about 2 years and didn't seem to develop enough play to affect print quality. 0-beta. 2 Speed profile for all 3. 7. Original Prusa MK4S Print Quality Troubleshooting. 5S) A 3D printer's hotend can get clogged. Prusa MK4 kit with prusa extruder silicone sock; Default settings of PrusaSlicer (0. 9, XL) The nozzle on the Nextruder has to be at the correct height. The top print is from the printer before modification, the bottom from the MK4S. Upgrade to 3. I feel lucky that I didn't lose adhesion to the build plate as this was a 12 hour print. | Download free 3D printable STL models If you are having problems with a clean first layer, be sure to go through the drying process. comments. Major Print quality issues with K1 2. Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. 4 nozzle, should be similar to the MK4, as they share the same extruder and hotend. Notifications Clear all print quality issues Eminent Member. 05 in slicer fixed it to this day. Edit 3: No dice printer on the hardwood floor resulted in almost exactly the same poor quality print. Each of those printers will have 1 or more default profiles. You might want to calibrate your pressure advance settings. 5S MK3 MK3S MINI MK3S+ MINI+ XL MK4 MK3. But rather think it has become a more niche printer than it used to be. I really love the MK3S+ and that is why i bought the MK4. Can you please include the . (I say this as a MK3S+ and X1C owner (and almost MK4 owner - canceled the order after reading more about MK4 capabilities, firmware related issues, octoprint incompatibilities, 2000 era networking etc)). 1mm than 0. I did use the speed profile a few times, but had problems with the quality so I’m not using that anymore. r/prusa3d. GCODE fixed to use the "Quality" setting. Also, there are a huge number of large stringy offshoots, I'm not sure whether or not these are contributing to the layer shift. I've also built 2 Mk3S+ and a MK4, and soon an XL. Better print at least another to avoid wasting time. But sometime my printer is stopping moving. PrusaSlicer 2. The total space that the MK4 makes up is 500 x 550 x 400 mm (19. As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the Simplify3D picture guide. The Prusa MK4 is a old and funny little bed slinger for $1100! Only a madman can pay so much money for a printer that is at the level How to prevent extruder blob from happening: Check the first layer – Since an improper first layer is the source of extruder blob in most of the cases, make 100% sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the entire print All things related to Prusa 3D printers. The few times i had first layer issue The MK4 debuts a plethora of new features for Prusa, including an extruder design capable of automatic calibration and easy nozzle swapping, rigid structure and high precision motors for increased print quality, and new electronics and firmware for higher speed printing and built-in support for cloud printing. ADMIN MOD Mk4 first layer issues Question/Need help Hi, after some time with my mk4 i started to Have issues with PLA on first layer. Fixed GCODE files for printing the official MMU3 parts on a PRUSA Mk4 printer. In order to use the IS you have to install the 5. Fantastic first time 3D printing experience: Prusa MK4 kit! IGUS plastic bushings are self lubricating. The AMS lite is easy to load and takes up very little extra space with the top mount printable bracket. And putting together the kit helped me learn alot of about 3d design. 7” x 21. Printed with Overture PLA, default profile (215/210 C), printer profile "Original Prusa MK4 Input Shaper 0. The Original Prusa MK4 is an excellent 3D printer that produces top-quality prints and sets a benchmark for all other 3D printers to follow. The Ender 3 V3 takes up Yep, I had the same issue back in November on my new, assembled MK4, and setting Z offset to . 0-alpha2 and got a After like 40m of printing it just stops and looks like it restarts and shows the one click print screen with the most recent print. Old filament is trickier to print, and a lot more prone to causing issues. Prusa MK4, 0. The latest firmware update allowed me to go back and successfully complete the initial setup wizard, but one issue still remains: x-axis homing failures. I couldn’t finish the initial setup wizard due to these issues, but discovered I could still print without issue. 4 print settings. I bought a pack of 5 PETG filament from Prusa. Clogged nozzle/hotend (MK3. 2mm quality non-input shaping in Prusa slicer and the temperature is definitely set correctly for petg. They are extremely bulgy! I've read several things on several forums, but found no good solution. (temperature range of having no seam gap and having the best overall print quality don't overlap) I'm a bit disappointed because with a prusa mk4 I bought a whole ecosystem. Input shaping is working pretty well. The surface finish is very rough, there are random bumps on the print. I've been printing for about 10 years now and have had a couple minis/ mk3's and I'm pretty familiar with the height of the first layer I need to have a successful print, but I keep having an issue with the MK4 not squishing the first layer down far enough and prints as you can see from this image, when printing any circles on my MK4S, which has recently been upgraded from a MK4, has suddenly started printing like the image below. This filament isn’t that old and works fine on my other PRUSA MK4 (not yet upgraded to the ‘S’). 4mm Hotend with brand new prusa black pla. 15 speed vs structural, . And finaly, when Prusa expand the print range from 250x210x210 to 250x220x210, why they do not expand 210 to 220 too? how many users have enormous problems with Prusa printers. I've washed the bed with dish soap and water, I've made sure there isn't any debris under the bed, I've made sure the nozzle is clean, I've made sure the nozzle is seated in the nextruder properly and isn't loose, and I've disassembled and reassembled the MK4 quality issues 14. After drying 12 hours , all the issues were gone. Switched to Original Prusa MK4 All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Use the same black filament next time, guaranteed it will look nicer. Is this print quality consistent with any other MK4 owners out there, or is the issue more likely to be local to my printer/settings? I’m using Inland PLA+ and default print settings for the 0. How do I print this? (Printing help) print quality issues . (MK4 version) 0. And I thought buying 5 more printers now, after the mediocre product and service, I'm sure I’ll never buy a Pruse for the company or me again. Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3. 4 and . All things related to Prusa 3D printers. If it hits the endstop All things related to Prusa 3D printers. 9 MK3 I have the same issue with my MK4. I’m running out of ideas, I’ve talked to other people who’ve said step down the How can I get the absolute best quality on a Mk4? IS or non IS profile? Hello all, I want to print a model where I don't really care about the print time, I just want the nicest possible print. 7” x 15. I've to reboot once or twice the printer to be able to see the content of the USB stick and I am also having the same issue except my printer is showing "online" however when you try to send to connect the printer shows "offline" and will not send the file to begin printing. 15 layer height structural model. 2mm Its causing print failures and weak mechanical parts ( poor interlayer adhesion between adjacent layers / splitting when force is applied ) Pictures reflect a piece I printed with IS 5. One of the common issues faced with Original PRUSA machines is connecting the How is the print quality with high speeds and inout shaping from your opinion and point of view Deadeye_84 • Input shaping is an amazing add-on, but not for every print. It's worth checking on your machine if you're having divots or print quality issues. I thought Prusa would have offered a solution to these issues, but the only answer I got “I'm sorry, I know our print quality is not great. 8. User-Made unofficial GCODE files for printing the official MMU3 parts on a default Upgrade your MK3(S)(+) three ways: Upgrade to 3. Nextruder is not included. 5 cm in size. Usually I am able to home it, calibrate the axis' and the next print is fine. The surface finish is very rough, there are Poor print quality with Mk4, using default slicer settings. The surface finish is very rough, there are MK4 kit in a Prusa enclosure, running firmware 5. Slicer version 2. 5) On the Original Prusa MK4, having the Magiboxes in the wrong orientation can cause an uneven first layer. It's a known issue on the MK4. 0 RC) is awesome, without any noticeable drop in quality, while normal prints are generally the same or slightly faster than on MK3. Mk 4 Kit Print Issues. When compared to the MK4, the new MK4S features a new high flow rate nozzle out of the box, a new high-performance 3D cooling system, faster print speeds, and improved print quality. 3), and recalibrated the FINDA sensor. regardless of the tension on the belts and print speed. (not a print quality issue, but it was a reason) All printable parts for your Original Prusa MK4 and Original Prusa MK3. This is what I wrote Prusa today. You may need a bit of supports on that small lip but I think it is All things related to Prusa 3D printers. 2 SPEED, IS, Prusament PETG, Prusament PLA) MK3S/MMU2->MK4/MMU3 issues. I have an MK4 that has resonance/vibration issues coming from Y-Axis. Check belts. The model was printed in this position from the photo with automatic I'm having exactly the same problem. Show off your prints, or ask a question. That's the primary reason I use my Mk4 almost exclusively to print PETG. Stage 1: Read the manual first! Don't disassemble the printer for now, follow the instructions provided in the manual. But the X1C is super fast at the same print quality and the AMS is an amazing leap forward in MMU. I print on them ASA and I can easily see that there are hight variations for the first layer from perfect to loose adhesion for the exact same MK4 Print Quality Issue. Additionally, the printer supports the I have made several of the clocks from this site as well as a number of others. I have a few observations about print quality. m_khalli. My prints, start lose layer adhesion and warp. I have other issues with the printer but not related to this thread. I tried several print profiles, but no change. I have a P1S+AMS and my previous printer was a PRUSA Mk4. Regarding reliability - the prusa company has a very big printing farm, where MK3s and MK4 print parts for new printers. If you're used to the quality of the MK4, you'll have no issues with the quality of prints from the MINI+. This parameter can be Proper material/temperature settings – Always make sure to use the correct printing temperature for individual materials. Just finished a 5 color print with a 0,25 nozzle. I have done the following: Replaces bearings on X and Y Checked belt tension Checked screws around the printer Checked the motors, if they are from the bad batch and they are not. But the MK4 has some significant pro's still Very silent, especially compared to the jet engine X1C/P1P/K1. MK4/MK3. Every part of our printers is thoroughly tested in-house. Model credits: Buzz Lightyear by ChaosCoreTech, Deadpool by Eastman, Anatomic Heart by Malte, Melting Rubik’s Cube by Malte. Original Anyone sensible running these printers today (while the MK4 doesn’t have input shaping) would run the MK4 at roughly MK3 speeds to get good print quality. 1 The print quality of the MK4 is really annoying. Recently, all my prints have been coming out terrible. aware Pressure Advance and Input Shaping are required for high speed printing to increase the speed without reducing the quality. This is printed with PLA on smooth PEI sheet. I have re-calibrated the gearbox cover and also checked the idler arm tension. Each piece is designed so perfectly! To get a Prusa MK4 close to where an X1C is in terms of features will take a lot of work. When set to 65, it showed around 55. First printer Prusa MK3 the new MK3s, then upgraded to MK3S+. Depends on the installed printer. I have the issue on multiple printer (factory assembled) with FW 5. 5/S, MK3S+, MK2. The rods supplied by Doesn't Prusa print all of its printer parts in PETG on textured sheets? One would think this would be the most tested and easiest thing to get right. Cleaning and regreasing the gears with the prusa grease which comes with the mk4 and assamble it. Turn on "Wipe while retracting" and do a stringing test. I recently put together an MK 4 kit, and after assembly, it failed the Y-axis self-test. Prusa is undeniably one of the most respected names in the 3D printing Inconsistent layer lines and rough surface. Seems like Prusa could duck in and scribble some of those details down if they want to deliver what the users want natively, built right in, and able to purchase and plug right into the printer seamlessly integrated into the software and hardware. Restarting the print seems to fix the issue, so it doesn’t seem to be a gcode thing. Currently in the process of printing voron parts and running into an issue with printing ASA. gcode or . The issue is mostly occurring when using input shaping and seems worse at 0. In my case, I did not have any adhesion issues with my printer the weeks before the upgrade. upvotes Prusa mk4 abs printing help 2. I've done the assembly, recalibrated the planetary gears, recalibrated the filament sensor, upgraded the MMU3 firmware (to 3. Have not yet tested the old profiles or old firmware - to be honest. Most of them were printed on a Prusa MK3S, and recently replaced this with a Prusa MK4. 4. 3. MK2. Mk 4 Kit Print Issues Mk 4 Kit Print Issues Last Post RSS Ethan2000 (@ethan2000) Member. I made sure that the small PFTE tubes are installed in the correct orientation, to make sure filament can move in and out smoothly. 0-alpha3 firmware. The print quality Many common 3D printing problems stem from a poor first layer. bgcode file you printed from, packaged in a zip folder? My first thought is to slow down, but i can't know without the print file 😉 Have had no issues with it and have been running it nonstop the print quality is amazing, it’s quieter than all of the mk3s I have worked with in the past. Reply reply Fantastic first time 3D printing experience: Prusa MK4 kit! They can produce superior prints due to bring immune to the infamous 602 issue related to the Bond Tech gears in the MK3’s extruder and the higher precision motors. All at defaults, including that 6. you may run into issues printing large models on this machine. Since the MK4 has the same dimensions as the MK3S+, it also means it’s fully I performed a first layer calibration easily, and started printing a part that I print a lot of. Then on the MK4 i tested PLA on all 3 sheets (smooth, satin and textured) and they are all good and have a correct first layer height. Don’t print PETG with PLA settings! Filament is loaded properly – Check if the filament was I'll do my best to describe the issues and what I think may be causing them for others to share their greater wisdom: First layer is hit and miss. Make sure that all of them have the full side facing the center of the carriage. 5 upgrade contains the xBuddy board and new LCD, gives your MK3 the new 32-bit electronics, new connectivity options, Prusa Connect support, and also Input Shaper and Pressure Advance for high-speed printing. I recently upgraded my MK3S to a MK4 (and it's been printing near flawlessly for a month or two), and now I'm upgrading my MMU2->MMU3. 2mm quality 0. In our review of the Prusa MK4, we explore what sets the original apart from the imitations and reveal why Prusa is more important than many realize. Nozzle conditions (MK4, MK3. Prusa textured sheet. Both the X1C and MK4 use a combination of hardware design and firmware features to produce excellent print quality. I was able to print three parts with no issues until now for some reason. 4 nozzle" all default. I would say my MK3S+ was better in terms of print quality and reliability of the first layer than my Prusa MK4 is after 3 moths of use. The rest of the print turned out great and quality is high. 000 units sold during the last five years, and four consecutive wins of the 3D Printing Prusa; Let's just print one of our calibration models like the bench, it will be helpful for us to check what is the issue. 6mm nozzle, aside from a mildly corrected e-steps value. I printed a benchy, and some upgrade parts for my mk4, and I always seem to notice some inconsistencies on my prints. I reached out to support by email and the guy recommended a few things but then stopped responding. -I printed all the buffer plates at the first MMU3 release, but the part changed and i had to reprint all 10. I found the suggestion in a forum post, but only after spending 5+ straight hours on chat support where they had me test and submit photos of so many things, only for them to ultimately tell me they needed to escalate my issue to the “quality team” and they With a properly functioning MK4's load-cell bed levelling, you shouldn't need Z-offset adjustments in PrusaSlicer. It is connected to the printer (I can drive the Axis and move to home etc. Prusa has always focused on real-world print quality, and we're quite happy with the MK4 in that respect. I would need to buy or make an enclosure. They've also contributed heavily to the advancement of FDM that made the Bambu possible. 20 Quality @MK4 0. No issues with the hull or portholes. ). I'm using the Prusa Slicer and the default settings. I don't like the print quality. They were the first to move the needle towards "appliance" status with regards to reliability. I am using the built-in settings in the most up to date Prusa Slic3r and the quality is very poor compared to my MK3S+ printer. Been drying my filament in my Sunlu S4 all day and will try a dried filament print tonight. Great print quality. 7 latest. Now have had a MK4 for 20 hours and still unable to get one print off. I didn't experiment (and do not have the Original Prusa MK4 Print Quality Troubleshooting. After printing this and applying my findings, my printing quality improved drastically. In reality any time things slide over each other a tiny amount of material at the interface must melt, so in a sense every sliding interface is self-lubricating. I had been having trouble terrible ringing and VFAs when using the Input Shaper on my MK4, so I tuned and sliced this tuning G-CODE. 9 contains everything from the MK4 except for the Filament changes during print happen without issues and I've been able to succesfully print multicolor models. RE: MK4 Review - Quick thoughts after 2 weeks. USB drive or USB/Octoprint USB Describe the bug X-axis attempts to home by first by moving right. The MK4 has very good print quality, except of this belt ripple issue. I got one good print out of 3 tries. TODAY'S BEST DEALS $959. This doesn’t seem to happen on all prints, just a select few. (nothing serious)-The "Selector FINDA" printed part cracked while tightening the FINDA sensor. My modified Ender 3’s have been hassle free and make great quality prints, they are just slow. I completely agree. 9. Any sent files simply get to about 50% and show as "Waiting" on Prusa connect. The Original Prusa MK4 aims to follow up on the worldwide success of its predecessor, the MK3, which boasts more than 350. The orange was amazing out of the box, but when i started printing with the urban grey one, it was a disaster. Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. I’ve tightened the idler spring screws a little and that didn’t help. I also seem to be getting slight ghosting/rubberbanding issues on models 3d printed with my prusament Galaxy black filament. I have updated the firmware to the most recent version and power cycled it. Either way, the print quality of the XL, especially if you use a 0. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. However when I attempt to print a large item that I've re-sliced for the MK4 using input shaping and structural, the printer is not laying down a The Original Prusa MK4S boosts the performance of the MK4 with subtle upgrades that have a dramatic effect on speed and quality. Yeah slight ghosting is still there because the printer can't do resonance calibration by it's own. The problem is with the extruder nozzle running into the build plate. A problem with extrusion can rarely happen mid-print without any previous warning signs. Hello prusa folks, I seem to be getting questionable 3d print quality on my Mk4 kit I bought a week ago. While in corners and next to walls layers look good, in the center and on long runs it starts rippling and Sure, the MK4 ist quit faster than MK3S+, but I could not really find quality differences. So many issue's never experienced with the MK3 series. Layer shifting is a printing issue that causes the layers of the printed object to shift from their intended positions. Doesn't matter: PLA, PETG, new or old spool. 1. The LCD goes blank but the print goes all the way. IMO the only place where Prusa is better (MK3S+/MK4 etc) is that Prusa printers are much quieter than Bambu. I have been printing some large models on the MK4 and keep getting y axis shift problems that ruins the print. really good quality LM8UU bearings from your local professional CNC machine parts supplier. I'm on 5. In the photo you can see that the walls of this print are all offset in the y direction. When I went to re-seat the nozzle, I noticed that the heat block was a little loose. Sample G-codes Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. 0 a4 and 4. I’m using . I was having issues with the nozzle leaving divots in my build plates. For optimal results: Re-tighten bed and nozzle screws every few hundred print With PETG, the single fan is far more than enough cooling, so you'll see a much better benefit to prints with PETG. Let's see how my newly replaced Prusa MK4 is printing and see if it's worth spending the $1099Thanks again to Nikko Industries for sponsoring today's video! why does MK4 suck so bad?! Why does my Prusa MK4 suck so bad? I cant even print the same print without chaos. RE: print quality issues. 1mm for a model that has significant overhang angles. Prusa printer, Prusa slicer, Prusa Speaking with the Prusa Help desk they suggested downgrading to the last known good version, so I proceeded to downgrade the printer to version 5. I am using a cht nozzle but again, it worked perfectly for pla. 1 and this resolved the issue:-) I first noticed this issue appear in version 5. Me; I have no issues with the quality of the prints. While I was happy with the MK4 reliability and print quality, I had recurring issues with the MK4S immediately after the upgrade with the filament getting stucked/jammed ("bloqué" in the french messages displayed on the LCD) randomly during the Printing speed with Input Shaper (5. 9: $499 - MK3. I have taken every object that has failed on the XL resliced for Since a week or so I got issues with sharp corners. 5mm First Layer speed 50% All other settings normal Filament: YOUSU 3D Printer Filament, 250G PLA Silk Filament Bundle, 1. With that printer I can print without issues. ADMIN MOD Printing ASA on Mk4 Issues . the first try (middle print) was using fw_4_7_2_MK4, so then I changed to MK4_MK3. The prusa ones have the most as Prusa have put in the effort to create them. Until now I had two Mk3S+ printers. On Point. This can result in a missed layer or the extrusion can even stop completely. 5 MK2. They can also use Input Shaping and Pressure Advance for SIGNIFICANT speed increases over the MK3s while maintaining superior quality. Print with Pesament PETG Galaxy Black Print Quality Issues Help. Now that spot is honestly taken by the P1P. I had issues with cornering on some prints. Notifications Clear all Bad printing quality Last Post RSS kldMurshed (@kldmurshed) Active Member. You know what you can do. Sad but true. In fact on a lot of models it can end up looking worse. All prints have gaps in them Its the same roll of filament (Polymaker Polyterra PLA) with Generic PLA settings on 0. I'll go on live chat later today. Prusa Connect is failing. What causes the printer to stop extruding mid-printing: Major Print quality issues with K1 2. Having the same exact issue. Stopped extrusion mid-printing. I get you. I just assembled a new MK4 /r/prusa is a place for people to discuss the open source Prusa 3d printer design. Built my mk4 myself a few weeks ago, passed validation tests just fine, printed benchys of good Dramatic loss of print quality [probably cool issue] After more than a month of excellent-quality print in the enclosure, I've seen big troubles with corners. 0 fw and Prusaslicer . I did try to print on my mk4 with 65 and 70. 4 nozzle Generic PLA 0. 2 firmware. At those default settings, the 3DBenchy was not that bad. Also from the Article: The MK4 doesn’t have a built-in accelerometer in the Nextruder, but there’s an accelerometer port on 36 votes, 56 comments. Input Shaper (MK4) Bad printing quality . The machine is meticulously designed, and even using out-of-the-box settings to start our test prints shows in the end product. Doing otherwise and expecting it to magically keep up with a P1P is weird. No windows open and no breeze anywhere. The printer can recognize issues with heating and stop operation to different extrusion temperatures: printing hotter seems to mitigate the issue but the overall print quality is not good then. Pre-Bambu if someone had the budget and wanting to get into 3D printing then a prusa was a good recommendation. 5/S, XL, MINI/+) First layer issues Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. Please give some advises. Sometimes its perfect, sometimes the filament isn't getting squished enough, Still have questions? If you have a question about something that isn't covered here, check out our additional resources. Different nozzle types 3rd party accessories & Other projects > Nozzles. Any advise? Printer: MK4. Printer & Slicer Filament Material and Brand Nozzle and Bed Temperature Print Speed. I had terrible print quality until I realized belts were very loose. The filament I use is Prusament PETG. Original Prusa MK4. Post anything that relates to these 3d printers, personal projects, new designs, improvements, questions, news or My MK4 Kit is great, printed multiple things without any issues. The Having issues with prints failing because they aren’t sticking to the textured sheet, most likely due to not enough “squish” on the first layer. The Prusa MK4 is constructed out of a die-cast aluminum frame and 3D-printed components that hold the machine together. My main reason for staying with Prusa over the years is definitely their company philosophy and customer support though. 0-rc1. On the Prusa Connect status on teh printer it is constantly flashing as "Connecting" with the status showing as "Bug". This resulted in rounded corners, poor letters, and hexagons The MINI+ is not a space saver as such, due to the external spool holder (unless you mount the spool elsewhere) but in terms of quality I saw very little difference at all between the two printers. After I turned it on there were no strings at all. 57 at Amazon Expansion joints (MK4, MK3. I'm currently using official PLA or PETG from Prusa. 05mm is the lowest you can go, but it doesn’t automatically result in higher print quality. I'll pass this to the farm management team,” nothing else. 0 RC1 with the latest release build of Prusaslicer. in fact, MK4 offers too much playful details. Usually on my Prusa Mini I printed PLA on the smooth sheet and PETG on the textured and they all stick well. Definitely worth the money. bvdbh eegvzj ecmoyfe rwozj syh oqqbsm huisen nsz kxtxft wvfacou